Reisebericht Sudan - Weltenbummler Shumba - Weltreise mit dem Allrad Reisemobil

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Travel Report Sudan
21.03. -  15.04.2014

   our Route

Diesel Price:

1€ = ca. 11,16 Sud. Pound Status 04/2014
0,30 € /Ltr


3.599 km
1st. Berlin; 2nd. Dubai

Part I >  Suakin - Meroe            

Somehow we arrived with the mistaken belief that this country is like the other Islamic countries, only poorer. But far from it! Sudan is undoubtedly an African country accompanied   with a touch of Arabia. We see black people, men with turbans and jalabiya, women their body intricately wrapped with colorful fabrics. This is Africa: the poverty, the way of life, the laughter of the people.

Already the first impression of the night is very positive. In the first village we happen to meet again some people from the ship and on a dusty place we sit together at a restaurant very relaxed eating foul and drinking mint tea. Unfortunately, there is no cold beer with it, this you get nowhere in the country. In Sudan, Sharia law applies. Anyone who drinks alcohol risks being publicly flogged. After the boundary procedure, the simple food awakens our spirits and opens our eyes to what is happening around us. The smells, the colors, the music, the smiling faces, partially it is strange, consistently cheerful and not at all a menacing "new" world.

Suakin is the oldest port of Sudan. At Suakin Island the Mecca pilgrims of North Africa came together to take ships to Jeddah and Mecca. The old coral city broke down, just a few ruined buildings and old mosques attest to the old days. For a long time Suakin also was a slave port.
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Teil II >  Shendi - Gallabat / Grenze Äthiopien            

After two nights we continue to Shendi. The city offers nothing worth seeing. By chance we  come here past at some garages, in which the famous old Bedford trucks are to repair. These originally British vehicles are a peculiarity in Sudan.
The vehicles are modified, which means nothing else than that they are reinforced all around, but also be extended and widened. Equipped with very massive benches on the loading surface, they are ideally suited for the use on the rough bumpy roads, the many potholes and for heavy loading. Some are real masterpieces. The owners are very proud of their fanciful painted and decorated vehicles. In this workshop quarter, there is nothing that is not fixed. Old Wartburg, Toyota, Land Rover, for everything there is spare parts here, everything is repaired. For something new, there is no money. We are very excited.

Here we meet Dr. Taho. He owns a farm in the north of Shendi and explains to us that there is mainly a lack of education and training in Sudan. There are many people with money, but they do not know how to invest it. Also, the marketing of goods such as vegetables is a problem. You are stuck with  the goods since there are hardly any export opportunities. Over coffee and tea we talk on and on about it, but also about the differences between our cultures, the Sharia and the African roots of the Sudanese people. Even the garbage problem we address. So far we have only seen three garbage cans in the whole of Sudan. We always feel bad when we throw our neatly collected trash on the big pile before the  village. Well knowing that dogs or goats tear the bags apart and everything is  flying through the area like all the other garbage. The best sign to find human gatherings are always the many plastic bags that hang like Christmas decoration in the bushes and shrubs.
  ... read more ...

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Conclusion  Sudan           

Oh, wouldn’t it have been so damn hot! The heat drove us off otherwise we would have stayed longer in this great country in any case. To arrive just one month earlier would have been ideal.

Nowhere before we have experienced such warmth, openness and tolerance. These people are incredibly helpful without expecting anything back. Everywhere one is invited to at least tea or coffee. No matter how poor they are, they laugh at you like you're the best friend. They are just happy that one is visiting their country. Despite the political difficulties, the separation of South Sudan and the years of civil war, the warmth of its people remains undeterred.

We had read that the Sudanese do have the reputation of being the friendliest and warmest people. After the experiences in Oman we actually did not think there could be an "increase", and maybe it's not fair to compare these two countries. The Omanis will forgive us, but according to our present experience, there is an increase and we can only confirm the "rumor".

It is an absolutely safe country to visit if you stick to the safety rules and avoid the war and risk areas. Apart from the fact that one would not receive travel authorization for these areas. And although there are many road controls, most waving through just laughing, very few want to see the passports, and very few want to look into the vehicle, means travell in Sudan is absolutely relaxed travel.

Please bear in mind, we were traveling from the east to the north of the country and drove directly to the border of Ethiopia in the south. Unfortunately, we could not travel the wonderful Nuba mountains where Leni Riefenstahl has studied and photographed the people of the Nuba for several years, because since some time there  is  a kind of guerrilla war.  In Darfur, an area the size of France, there is still civil war and therefore this land can also not be travelled. Large parts of the country are therefore excluded from the route planning, however, the great "rest" has so much to offer.

We very much hope that the country gets its huge garbage problem somewhat under control, that the political difficulties and corruption are getting lower and that the huge amount of money, earned by oil, does not continue to flow in the military for the most part, but much more will be invested in education and infrastructure.

Do the western world still speak about Darfur or South Sudan, or even about the region of the Nuba?

If this country would get more attention internationally, the people would deserve it.

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Sudan    I - The East and the Nubian Desert
Sudan   II - Along the Nile

Sudan III  - Along the Nile and the South
... People of Sudan        ... Vehicles


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Shumba - the Globetrotters - Travel around the world with an offroad motorhome

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