Travel Report Mozambique - Weltenbummler Shumba - Weltreise mit dem Allrad Reisemobil

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Travel Report Mozambique

20.06. - 20.08.2015

   our Route

Diesel Price:

1€ = 41,35 07/15
0,89 €/Ltr



3.376 km

in Germany


Part I >  Negomano - Chocas da Mar          20.06. - 23.07.2015         1.310 km


... and the world looks different. Even the border town is anything but expected. "Normally," African border towns are market places there it will be traded and sold diligently. But here? Nil return! There is no village! At the end of the frontier bridge are a police camp and the border station. The village we find after we have circled a couple of times through the bush is a few kilometers away from the border and consists of decayed houses and a few sparse equipped small shops, nothing else. And by circling around we have found out that our maps all do not match with the circumstances, meaning the roads are not present.
Since it is already late afternoon and at 17:30 clock the night dawns, we decide to spend the night at the border post. We are trying to get into conversation with the border police on the roads in the interior, but it turns out quickly that they do not even know very much.
However, the routes that we have picked from our maps do either not exist or they are too small for our car. They all do recommend as the only way the "main street". As it turns out quickly, this is no more than a one-lane, dusty track with many extended holes. We get a first impression of the undeveloped north of Mozambique.
With three different online maps, of which the most reliable is Tracks4Africa, we can manage quite well, there is anyway only one way up to the small town of Mueda. The first major town on our route where there is supply, even banks with ATM if they do work we were unlucky and had to necessarily continue into the next bigger town.
We pass through many small villages the people live in mud huts with thatched roofs. Life mainly takes place outside the hut. Cooking, playing, napping, at first glance does not differ much from Tanzania. Otherwise, there is not much to see on this route, everything is overgrown. We pass through the Makonde Plateau, the territory of the tribe of the same name. But from the fantastic carvings, for which the people are known we unfortunately see nothing.

In Mocimboa da Praia the ATMs do work and... more...



Part II >  Chocas da Mar - Mandimba          23.07. - 20.08.2015         2.066 km


The extension of the east-west connection direction of Nampula is finished and so we making rapid progress on an excellent tarred road. In the big city, we only stop for supply. There is a "Shoprite" supermarket South Africa says hello, and a very good butcher.
Otherwise one must be very careful in Nampula. We have been warned of this city by several people who live here. Car thieves, robberies, assaults, and even kidnappings are commonplace here. And even we would almost have been a victim of pickpocketing.
Normally the locals go at a distance on the sidewalks. They do not touch one. But the bump I got was just too clumsy. Presence of mind I turn around immediately after Klaus and see how the guy has his fingers at Klaus side pocket. I shout at him and strike him on the same. Nothing happened, thank goodness. The guys are gone in an instant.
The closer we come to the small market town Namiconha, the more beautiful and unique is the panorama. Huge granite Inselbergs are in the sparsely populated countryside. The route leads parallel to the railway line, the so-called Northern corridor. This route constitutes Malawi's access to the ocean and ensures the transport of goods from the ports to the small country.
The route behind Ribaué is simply terrific and is certainly one of the most beautiful scenic routes that we have done so far in Africa. It is almost a pity that the track is so good.
So the many small villages, the houses and the hustle and bustle around them are literally flying past us. The people in this region are warm and friendly, almost a little shy. At times, they look at us as if we had just fallen from the moon. The mountains, sporadically looking like sugar loaves,... more...

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Conclusion Mozambique


For the third time we have now travelled in Mozambique. This time we focused on the north of the country. The remote north has not much in common with the coasts of the South. Too remote from mass tourism from South Africa and other neighboring countries, the north is largely undeveloped and pristine. The roads are often very bad and require patience. There is a basic supply.
We have taken our time for the country and people. Unfortunately for the first time on our journey we had problems to come deeper into discussions with the population, because we cannot speak Portuguese and some people only speak their tribal languages. Nevertheless, we had a lot of fun with this very warm and friendly people. Everywhere we were greeted with laughing and waving and have then communicated with the help of our hands and with drawings in the sand. Totally unobtrusive, almost shyly, they indeed did observe us, when we settled our camp, but we were never bothered. Although, we were robbed at the beginning due to our own negligence, we have always felt safe in northern Mozambique.
Mozambique is among the poorest countries of Africa, yet is amazingly expensive. Foods and having food in a restaurant are more expensive than before in Tanzania. We asked ourselves more often, like a mechanic who earns 5000 Mtc a month, which are about 120 €, is keeping his and his families heads above water. The legal minimum wage in the country is 4000 Mtc that is not even 100 €. All the more surprised we were that we were not, or only very rarely, begged for something. The people, mostly men, initially offer their labor power, and only then, in a second step, they may ask a few meticais.
In advance we had read the wildest stories about corrupt police controls. We were stopped three times and controlled correctly three times.
Mozambique is (supposedly still) the third-most corrupt country in the world and would the political situation between the rebel groups of Renamo and the ruling party Frelimo be permanently stable, then the country could use his incredible potential even better.
For us Northern Mozambique is the beautiful, the wild, "untamed" country among the East African countries, far and huge, with a fantastic nature. Northern Mozambique is a "stark beauty", unchanged and pristine. Real Africa!

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 Moz. Part I  - The North East and the Coast


Shumba - the Globetrotters - Travel around the world with an offroad motorhome

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