Travel Report Tanzania - Weltenbummler Shumba - Weltreise mit dem Allrad Reisemobil

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Travel Report Tanzania
04.08.2014 -  24.08.2014 

21.11.2014 - 20.06.2015

   our Route



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1€ = 2.200 TS 08/14 - 2.104 TS 02/15
0,92 €/Ltr

Horo Horo                 Rusumu

Loitokitok                  "Unity Bridge" One
6.889 km         
at the border


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Part I >  Horo Horo - Terekea           04.08. - 24.08.2014          842 km

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Horo Horo is a small border crossing. The clearance is hassle free and friendly. Right after we reach a broad, perfectly paved road, even street signs are available here.

Tanga, a cozy harbor town, is our first stop. Highly visible the German clock tower of 1901 and the building of the former Hamburg Sisal office. Otherwise, nothing from the German colonial period before the First World War can be seen. Tanga reminds us very much of cities in Oman. The population is mainly Muslim, the women wear colorful clothes men wear the little white cap. Entire streets are souk-like rows of shops where the bean and rice bags are up on the street. People call and waving at us. Striking in Tanga is that even the beautiful houses on the "Ocean Drive", the waterfront, where the better-off families live are not secured with electric or barbed wire fences. The area seems to be safe.

We want to sail to Zanzibar with a dhow and so we look for a freight dhau that takes us along with our motorcycle in Pangani, a former slave port. We are lucky at the third attempt we actually find an almost empty ship. We have to be there at 21:00 o’clock in order to load the motorcycle with the low tide. Then the ship is on its side and the crew is able to heave the motorcycle in the ship without any dock. We also go on board and nestle among the sailors on the hard boards on deck. At 01:00 o’clock the ship lays off with the incoming tide and moves in the middle of the river. At about 04:00 o’clock the dhau is expected to sail. But that does not work. The ship is caught in an anchor line and despite pushing and water pumping they do not get the boat free.
   ...read more...



                                                  
        

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Part II >  Rusumu - Mwanza            21.11.2014 - today          407 km

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On the border at Rusumu we say goodbye to a nice Rwandan customs official. On the Tanzanian side we run from desk to desk to get our visa, the stamp on the carnets and related to this for paying the roadtax. After much discussion, we first pay $ 50.00, since we "only" drive to Mwanza, to Lake VictoriaHowever, the entire entry process takes no longer than 30 minutes and the responsible persons are very friendly.

 
Oh yes, we are back in Africa ...! How fast and how gladly one gets used to orderly and comfortable conditions.
 
The landscape is so different, wide open, not only hills and fields. The settlements are less, only a few roofs glittering in the lush green landscape. And, Tanzania is quiet, no screaming children, no "give me, give me," the people are laughing and waving. The roads have huge potholes, deep as stairheads. We enjoy the space and that we are not always immediately surrounded by people.
 
Here in the northwest of the country we are in the territory of the Sukuma, with 15% they make up the largest proportion of the population in this region. The Sukuma live on agriculture, cattle breeding and around Lake Victoria, from fishing.   ... read more ...





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Part III >  Mwanza - Arusha             09.02 - 18.04.2015          780 km

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We set off again! 

Around noon we say goodbye to Wiebke and her team. Five weeks has been a long time and one get to learn each other. We felt very comfortable at Lake Victoria.
 
For us it was good to be in one place for a longer time. And also the contact with the people has become more intense. On the great market in Mwanza we fill our supplies and set off towards the north, to the Serengeti. Yes, we will afford the entry into the National Park with the most wildlife in the world. What for the exorbitant entry fees but are used is a mystery to us. The money is certainly not used for the maintenance of roads and trails in the park.
 
So to speak we both did grow up with Bernhard Grzimek and we still remember his saying "The Serengeti Shall Not Die!". Thanks to its immense commitment this unique sanctuary was connected with the Masai Mara National Park in Kenya and additionally other protected areas around the actual National Park were affiliated. These buffer zones ensure that the unique natural wonders, the annual "Wildebeest Migration" do not get "in the way" with the herds of the local population.
 
The endless savannahs and the varied landscape are an experience as well is the large number of animals. We try to imagine, what's going on here, when the great migration takes place. Then, almost two million wildebeest move in a centuries-old cycle through Tanzania and Kenya. Apparently numerous fat eaten giant crocodiles are already waiting on their prey in the Grumeti River. Many

tsetse flies unfortunately...   ... read more ...






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Part IV>  Arusha - Lake Tanganjika - "Unity Bridge" One     18.04.-20.06.2015     3.220 km

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The distance from Mwanza leads through the backcountry of the great Lake Victoria. On the bumpy roads we get ahead quite well. The tar road ends in Nyanzani and it goes straight down to business. Potholes as big and deep as kiddie pools make rapid progress impossible. The landscape is hilly, overgrown, and the earth is, as you would expect in Africa, dark red.
 
No power line disturbs the image. It seems as if this land has been forgotten from the rest of Tanzania. The people are poor often the little clothes on the body are only shreds. Main means of transport for people and goods is the bike, no matter what, boards, trees, bricks .... The small villages along the road are bleak and often houses fall apart partially.
 
Late in the evening we arrive in Kigoma, the only Tanzanian town on Lake Tanganyika. Once Kigoma was a German garrison town today it is the most important port city on the entire lake. From here all kinds of goods are shipped towards the Democratic Republic of Congo. The railway line from Dar es Salaam ends here.
 
On Jacobsen Beach Campsite, the only camp site, we get to know Susi, Paul, Astrid und Hans. All four are "old Africa explorers" and got around much. They just spend their 4-week holiday in Tanzania. Together, we spend two funny, entertaining evenings together.
 
The contemplative, large city Kigoma offers a unique market. Due to the great distance Many goods are here more expensive than in Mwanza. Next to Kigoma is Ujiji, a former Arab settlement, still very influenced Muslim. Once this place was lying on the Slave Route of the Arabs on their way from Central Africa. What remains are a small quaint harbor and a long main street of cobblestones. Dr. David Livingstone, the famous explorer, lived here in Ujiji, and under a big mango tree next to a simple Museum one can find a memorial stone.
 
After an ample dip in the refreshing lake water we take on our journey south. The first 100km are tarred road and from Uvinza a good road continues through forest trees and shrubs. Contrary to our expectations, the state of the track is good. But we do not want to decry, who knows what's coming. We have already heard and read too much bad about this route. On the way it is very difficult to find accommodation places, it's all covered very dense. Picky one should not be here.
 
The road remains better than expected. Every now and then allow glades in the forest a look at the breathtaking expanse west towards Lake Tanganyika and to the high mountains of the Congo. ...read more...




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Conclusion

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Tanzania! A land of superlatives! No other African country has does offer so many natural wonders, is as diverse as Tanzania. The tourist highlights are definitely the Arab influenced coast with the islands like Zanzibar, Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater, access to 3 major lakes, such as Victoria, Tanganyika and Malawi, the high plains of the African Rift Valley, and many large national parks.
 
But Tanzania also has other sides. The small shops are accessible openly, the houses are not barricaded behind barbed wires and there are friendly and open people who live and maintain their traditions. Nevertheless, it is a society with a lot of bureaucracy and high levels of corruption. Technology advances in Tanzania. With Chinese support roads are constructed, up in the corners of the country fiber optic cables are laid and the telephone network is good.
 
Nevertheless, there are still rural areas, which have neither electricity nor water supply and the women and children carrying the water in canisters for kilometers. The AIDS rate is high, life expectancy is low health care leaves much to be desired. Tanzania is one of the countries in Africa where the most fake medicines are sold, especially against malaria and worm infestations.
 
It is impressive to see children playing. They romp around, play with balls made from plastic bags or rags, or with small wire cars or they drive old tires in front of them with a stick. The laughter on the faces of these children comes from their heart. They can deal with so little and seem to be so happy. One can only wish them heartily that they stay healthy.
 
We loved Tanzania exceptionally and we felt safe throughout. The only drawback in our opinion the admissions to the national parks for foreign visitors are totally overpriced.
 
For us Tanzania is "Africa at its finest."




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Tanzania  I - The North East and Zanzibar

Tanzania II - Round Lake Viktoria

Tanzania III - Into the furnace of Tanzania

Tanzania IV - Lake Tanganjika into the very South

... People of Tanzania
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